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A HOLE IN WYOMING |
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JACKSON HOLE WYOMING IS ONE OF THOSE PLACES that leaves you slack jawed,
gasping "ooh, aah". Rustic, rugged, friendly and dangerous are the only way
to describe this throwback to the wild, wild west. It isn't as overdeveloped
and commercialized as many of the Colorado ski areas but is very popular for
winter sports enthusiasts of all skill levels. |
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Rustic Jackson |
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Jackson Hole (JH) is part of the largest
undeveloped natural ecosystem in the temperate zones of the earth. Limited
development has preserved the scenic beauty and wild lands, which are home to
the vast array of wildlife. Less than 3 percent of Teton County is privately
owned; the other 97 percent is part of the Grand Teton National Park, the
Bridger-Teton National Forest, and the National Elk Refuge. |
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JH was named by the fur trappers who once
visited the area in the early 1800's. A "hole" was the definition
of a high valley surrounded by mountain ranges. JH was considered early
trapper Davey Jackson's territory, thus it was first named Jackson's Hole
(later shortened to Jackson Hole). While the main town is Jackson, Jackson
Hole is the entire valley beginning south of Yellowstone and running 60 miles
south through Grand Teton National Park. |
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The original inhabitants of JH were the
Shoshone, Crow, Blackfoot, and Gros Ventre Indian tribes who moved into the
valley during the warmer months but left during the winter months. Their main
purpose was to hunt the teeming wild elk and buffalo. Later, in the 1800's
fur trapper stopped through. The
first of which was John Colter as a departure from the Lewis and Clark
Expedition. |
Gondola up Gondola Summit |
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His tales of spending time in Yellowstone,
with vivid descriptions of bubbling mud pots and steaming geysers, led people
to nickname the area "Colter's Hell". Later, Davey Jackson arrived
to trap beaver in the valley that was named after him. French-Canadian
trappers named the Grand Teton Mountains around 1920. The distinctive peaks
appeared as "Les Trois Tetons" meaning The Three Breasts. (They are
now called The Grand, Middle, and South Teton. The Grand is the tallest at
13,770 feet.) Around 1875 brought photographer William Henry Jackson who took
the first photographs of the Teton Mountains as well as Yellowstone. Those
photos helped convince the federal government to protect the area as the
world's first national park in 1872 (18 years before Wyoming became a state). |
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Cattle ranching developed, and by the
mid-1880's settlers dotted the valley around villages named Kelly, Wilson,
Jackson, and Moran. As with much of the Old West, many of the cowboys passing
through were African American.
Jackson was laid out in 1897, in a location central to many of the
ranches homesteaded in the valley. In 1920, Jackson elected a mayor and town
council consisting of all women, the first all-woman town government in the
U.S. Grand Teton National Park was created in 1929 and expanded in 1950 with
the help of John D. Rockefeller, who bought and then donated a great deal of
the land. Tourism gradually usurped ranching as the area’s economic base and
in 1939 residents built one of the first ski tows in the U.S. on Snow King
Mountain in town. Jackson Hole Ski Area in Teton Village opened 1965. |
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Getting to this "hole" is fairly simple, United, American,
Delta, etc will fly you there via Denver
or Salt Lake City. For accommodations, look no further than the brand
spanking new Four Seasons
Resort, which JUST opened with more than 125 really nice rooms and
suites. Another good choice is the Alpenhof
lodge, also in Teton Village at the base of the mountains. Its has a very
Bavarian flavor and is the closest hospitality to the lifts. |
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For dining be sure to check out the Cascade Grille over at
the Teton Mountain Lodge. Whet your appetite with their Wild West Potato
Pancakes with smoked trout and get wild with the Molasses Elk which is
perfectly wonderful. Finish with Jack Daniels pecan pie and a cup of French
Coffee (it ain't what you might think-it is Gran Marnier, brandy and a spot
of coffee)! Another eatery worth a stop is the Snake River Grill, in town.
Thought a bit pricey, the Elk loin is expertly prepared by chef Jeff Drew (a
CIA grad) and delicious. Finish with the Chocolate Mint Nightcap and you’ll
be set. The Grill is named for the famous nearby river. |
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Obviously, winter sports are the big draw. However, if you are neither a skier
nor snowboarder, consider snow-shoeing or dog sledding. A tour of the Grand
Teton National Park is also in order and of course Yellowstone is just a
stones throw away. You are bound to see bison, elk and perhaps moose
browsing. Wolves were reintroduced fairly recently and might be seen. Of
course you must tack the aerial tram to the summit of Rendezvous
Mountain. It’s about a 10 minute
ride but provides breathtaking vistas. |
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Afrotrekkers will note, upon visiting JH, that despite
it’s daunting presence, ski areas are suitable for beginners up to insane.
For the true adventurers, High Mountain Helicopter Skiing is available on
nearby mountains. You take a chopper 12 thousand feet up and ski (or roll)
down fresh powder. Too much! If you find yourself shushing down Gondola
Summit take time to stop in Casper Restaurant, at the base of the Casper
Chairlift, for lunch. The food
is rather tasty and it’s a great place to catch your breath. |
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Helicopter skiing |
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Jackson Hole, like most ski resorts is having a great
early snow season this year and just about all trails are open. With the new
Four Seasons, the great skiing and rustic beauty, there is no reason not to
get out to the Hole. |
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