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THE COWBOY IN YOU AT TANQUE VERDE RANCH |
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The name Bose Ikard was never
mention in the mini-series "Lonesome Dove", but Danny Glover's character Josh
Deets was based on Ikard. Moreover, until recently you would never find
Ikard’s name mentioned in the annuls of cowboy lore. Yet along with Bill
Pickett, Nat Love and Addison Jones, Ikard was one of the greatest of all
black cowboys and perhaps all cowboys in general. His white employers, Charles
Goodnight and Oliver Loving trusted and relied on him above the white cowboys
in their employ. He was well known for bringing in the herd along the famous
Goodnight-Loving trail from Texas to Colorado. On his gravestone in
Weatherford Texas is inscribed these words by his old boss: "Bose Ikard served with me four years on
the Goodnight-Loving Trail, never shirked a duty or disobeyed an order, rode
with me in many stampedes, participated in three engagements with Comanches,
splendid behavior." - Charles Goodnight |
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In the early 1820s, as white settlers
moved west to claim land, they brought their slaves along to manage the
cattle. Most of the slaves were from Gambia and Ghana and possessed the
necessary herding skills to keep control of the large herds. In fact it is
said that white cowboys emulated these very techniques only on
horseback. Few slaves rode
horses, instead herding on foot and with dogs. When the Civil War broke out many
ranches were left in the charge of the slaves who later did learn horseback
riding. White ranchers often claimed two blacks on horseback and a couple of
dogs could move over a hundred head of cattle. After emancipation, many of the
former slaves hired themselves out as cowboys. Those were some of the best
jobs a freed slave could have. They earned equal pay and had equal rights
while on the trail. (That was not so once they reached the various towns.) More than twenty-five percent of the
old west cowboys were African-American. Only recently have African-Americans
tried to get in touch with their cowboy heritage. I did, several years ago
after I learned my great aunts uncle was a cowboy. Now, every chance I get, I
run off on a trail ride or dude ranch to rekindle the spirit of the old west.
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Tanque Verde has plenty of horse for every skill level |
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While in Tucson recently, I enjoyed
a stay at the luxurious (by guest ranch standards) Tanque Verde Guest Ranch
and Spa. The spa part seems somewhat out of place at first, but after
a day of riding, you’ll appreciate it. Tanque Verde [pronounced tank-a
vird-ee] is owned by the Cote Family Properties
helmed by Bob and Rita Cote along with a few choice properties in Minnesota
including the historic Grandview Lodge. Tanque Verde
is 80 years old, the oldest and one of the largest in Arizona at 640 acres. Though physically not as big as some
Texas ranches, Tanque Verde strategically abuts the Saguaro National Park and
the Coronado National Forest; so it seems endless. Surrounded by the Rincon Mountains
and an infinite number of the world famous Saguaro cactus, Tanque Verde is
like no other guest ranch you’ll visit. Each of the 74 rooms is authentic to
Arizona ranch style; most have adobe wood-burning fireplaces. Lush wood tones
and leather complete the decor. For a romantic night enjoy the deep soft
leather seats near the fireplace. If you forgot how to light a fire ask one
of the ranches wranglers to come by, they are happy to do it. |
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Each of the 74 rooms is authentic to Arizona ranch style |
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The one thing you won't find in your
room is a television. Each room instead has a XM satellite stereo with plenty
of stations from which to choose. The reason there is no TV? Easy, there is
plenty to do on the ranch besides watching the boob tube. But don’t panic, there is a community
plasma TV in the “living room” of the dining lodge. The ranch operates on a full
American plan, which means you can expect three square meals every day. And
trust me, there is plenty of very tasty food - far better than any old
west cowpoke ever ate! Every guest who plans on riding is
offered a lope test to measure his/her horsemanship. You will fail the test
regardless of your riding ability because the ranch prefers everyone take a
Western saddle class. Don't worry, it's included. Once the riding skill is
established, guests are invited on several different rides throughout the
Saguaro National Forest. One of
the rides is a fast paced two-hour lope ride through some of the desert
washes. It is exhilarating! |
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The other rides include a breakfast ride
that is actually open to all riders regardless of their skill. It is a slow
walk around the ranch that actually affords some of the best views of the
area including the endless sea of cacti. The breakfast is a huge trail style
feast featuring lots of pancakes, eggs, bacon, sausage, potatoes and biscuits.
On our ride, ranch owner Bob Cotes was the chef and he showed us he hadn't
lost his touch flipping pancakes! There are several ranch horsemanship
activities that you might expect including roping and herding classes. But
one activity caught my attention: penning. Penning is the art of herding
cattle into selected pens. It is a contest of skill and timing that pits
individuals and teams against each other. |
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Penning is the art of herding cattle into selected pens. |
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I participated and managed to come
in a very close second to none other than a wrangler from another ranch. I
jokingly demanded a rematch to no satisfaction - but I did gain the
respect of the other wranglers. Not bad for a city slicker! That evening the guests were treated
to a fanciful trick roping exhibition by Loop Rawlings - an up-a world class roper. He included his version of fancy pistol drawing with a real Colt 45! Later we had an authentic cookout - cowboy style. Crashing the cookout were a herd of
Arizona Javelinas or collared peccary.
Javelinas are pig-like cousins of hippos and appear out of nowhere to
scavenge for food. |
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Loop Rawlings, trick roper, gives a demonstration of rope tricks. |
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Speaking of wildlife one of the
other popular activities at Tanque Verde include nature walks and birding.
Both begin from the ranches nature center and focus on the hundreds of
species that come to the ranch. Why? Because the ranch has the only watering
hole in the territory. Even I espied a hummingbird, coyotes and a spotted
owl. The watering hole is man made but
fed by an underground spring. The ranch keeps it stocked with bass, blue
gills and perch for those who prefer a leisure afternoon fishing. After a day of riding, penning,
hiking, mountain biking, tennis and roping the ranch offers the La Sonora Spa
featuring desert oriented treatments. No you won't get whipped with cactus
paddles, but many of the spas lotions and balms are made from the soothing
oils and liquids extracted from desert plants. A stay at Tanque Verde is an
excellent way of getting in touch with the cowboy in you. Just about everyone
rides because with over 180 horses there is a horse that's perfect for anyone
including children. Tanque Verde is located on the outskirts of Tucson at 14301 E
Speedway. A shuttle is available for pickup from the Tucson airport. It is
all-inclusive except for spa treatments which from $85 to $195. It is
advantageous to book well in advance of arrival due to the ranches
popularity. |
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