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FINDING REFUGE IN ARKANSAS

 

Watching a herd of elephants saunter across the African plains is a stirring sight. However, it is one best appreciated from afar. You do not want to anger one of the behemoths and get smashed.

 

So when two of the thick-skinned beasts approached from across a vast field I felt a slight trepidation.

 

Not that they were quickly approaching. No unless an elephant is protecting the herd or coerced it won't run...it saunters. And that's what these two magnificent animals did -sauntered up to me.

Two of Riddle's elephants taking a stroll...

 

They were hopeful for a treat. Sadly I was empty handed, all I had to offer were a couple of gentle pats on their sandpaper-like trunks.

 

I guess that's why one decided to relieve itself of an ocean of urine!

 

Afterwards they patiently posed for a photo while Scott Riddle discussed elephant behavior and the mission of the Riddle Elephant Sanctuary in Greenbrier Arkansas, United States.

 

Riddle's Sanctuary provides a safe, permanent place for elephants regardless of their species, gender, physical or psychological condition, size, or temperament.

 

Scott and Heidi Riddle established the sanctuary in 1990, on 330 acres in Arkansas, in the south central United States. It is about 35 north of Little Rock.

The number of elephants has steadily grown to its present number of twelve (12) African and Asian elephants of both genders. The two that greeted me were two of the Asians, Peggy and Betty Boop.

...up to me!

 

Both are retired circus elephants. Peggy, the eldest at 50 years of age is the taller of the two and matriarch as it were. Betty Boop is a spry 36 but well suited as Peggy's friend. Years of circus training has them quite docile though Scott quickly reminds me they are still wild animals that have merely been domesticated. If provoked either could become very destructive.

 

That was enough for me as I exited the massive enclosure that seemed to go on forever. Actually there was a fence just beyond the trees about 150 yards away.

 

Because of their calm dispositions those were only two I was allowed to interact with. A huge hulking African version named Willie that seemed nearly twice as big as the others. He came from a small zoo where he lived in isolation for many years, so he was still learning to socialize with the other elephants... at a distance.

 

Riddle builds all the enclosures himself with the aid of several interns and volunteers from nearby colleges. He got the materials from a bridge company that provides plenty of retired trestles. The trestles are perfect for containing the beasts. Old railway ties are also incorporated. 

 

Riddle's was the first of two stops to wild animal rescue facilities in Arkansas. The second is Turpentine Creek in Eureka Springs about 140 miles northwest of Riddles.

Less predictable elephants get a barrier

 

Arriving through Little Rock, you'll have a chance to check into the marvelously renovated Capital Hotel downtown.  Owned by Warren Stephens of Stephens Financial Services a bock away all rooms offer flat-screen televisions. Bed linens are by Chaz Stevens, bath linens by Frette and bath amenities by Moulton Brown.  It is a most comfortable way to begin an adventure.

 

Arkansas calls itself "the Natural State" mainly because of the unspoiled land and vast natural resources. Lake Hamilton, the huge man-made lake is where several Bassmaster tournament records have been set. It is not out of the ordinary to catch a 50-pound bass!  It is also where the Ivory-billed woodpecker - once thought to be extinct - was spotted by expert birdwatchers.  So it shouldn't be a surprise to find an animal refuge.

 

Ideal weather and inexpensive land costs made Arkansas choice for both Riddles and Turpentine Creek.  It is also home to the Holla Bend, Big Lake, Wapanocca, Felsenthal and White River national wildlife refuges.

 

After a filling dinner of shrimp and crawfish cakes, pasta Orleans (andouille sausage, crawfish, and shrimp tossed with pasta) and dessert of white chocolate bread pudding swimming in whiskey sauce, a restful sleep the next day's 3-hour drive will be a breeze.

One of the lions is blind

 

That drive will take you through the Boston Mountains section of the Ozarks Mountain country - the highest and most rugged portion of the Ozarks. Summits can reach elevations of just over 2,560 feet with valleys 500 to 1,550 feet deep.

 

Arriving in Eureka Springs, will take you back in time to the Victorian age. Of note are two hotels: The Crescent Hotel and Spa and the Basin Park Hotel, both owned Marty and Elise Roenigk. The Roenigk's are the U.S. largest dealers of antique mechanical musical instruments.

 

I chose the Crescent Hotel because for comfort and the chance to enjoy the ghost stories related to the hotel.  The king Balcony room shared a marvelous veranda the spanned the length of the hotel.

 

Then it was off to Turpentine Creek. Note there is a related gift shop and information center in town on Spring Street. There you can get detailed directions to the refuge.

A gorgeous tiger frolicking!

 

Once at the refuge, Turpentine president Tanya Smith and a baby leopard greeted me. The leopard was no more than two months old; full of play and not a threat as it ran around discovering the immediate area. But even in play you could see it developing it’s prowling and hunting skills. [Note: I was not allowed to pet the cub - that was reserved only for Turpentine staff.]

 

Beyond the front door and inside the compound were dozens of spacious enclosures that allowed the cats to roam around freely. The cats included several lions and tigers, a few cougars, bobcats, a serval and a black bear.

The Jackson family, originally from Texas, have cared for big cats since 1978 when the two lions, Bum and Shelia. As the cats grew, the family relocated to Eureka Springs when they first started the refuge. By chance a black market trader of exotic cats - on the run from Texas law authorities dropped off her illegal collection of nearly forty big cats she kept in two trailers.

 

That was essentially the beginning of Turpentine Creek as a rescue refuge.

 

Now the cats come from all over the country, generally with the same story.  A private owner buys the cub and thinks they have a great pet. But soon the cat outgrows the home and the owners need to get rid of the cat.

 

A couple of the cats limped as they walked and Hilda explained some owners declawed the cats, which for big cats is bad, leaving the cats crippled. Still the beautiful felines struggle through to survive.  

As wonderful as they look, lions are not pets.

 

Another set of cats was two male lions that adopted each other. One is blind and the other acts as its eyes. You could stand there forever watching them interact.

 

Like Riddle's, Turpentine Creek offers tons of educational opportunities for families, schools and visitors. They also offer unique lodging at reasonable rates.  Aside from allowing recreational vehicle parking, Turpentine has several safari-like beddings. One is a unique tree-house bungalow built on stilts, is about 15' from the ground, and is reached via a stairway up to the wraparound deck. It is secluded in a grove of trees, but a view of cats is readily available from the back and one side of the deck; a view of the scenery is available from the front and other side.  It's rather small but appeals to families with children.

 

The most comfortable lodging are the Zulu Safari Guest Lodge which are basically five luxury tents - just like the ones offered on a first class tented African safari. Each tent is decorated differently with African themes.

 

Perhaps the most unique thing about Turpentine Creek is the close proximity visitors are to the cats. You are less than five feet away! Those most are not aggressive, tours are heavily supervised so visitors don't attempt to touch or feed the cats.

 

Both Riddles and Turpentine Creek are funded through admissions and the special educational programs. Wal-Mart, in nearby Bentonville has been generous supplying meat for the cats. Tyson Chicken, also in Bentonville, has also joined in by supplying chicken meat. Several companies aid Riddles in purchasing hay and grasses for the elephants.

 

It is a unique opportunity to visit two wild animal refuges within such close proximity in such a nature friendly environment.  After taking time to fish the White River near Beaver Damn, I headed back to Little Rock for the flight home even more connected to nature and the wild kingdom.

 

 

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